The Nezu and Sendagi area preserves the nostalgic charm of Tokyo’s traditional shitamachi (old downtown) culture. With its historic shrines, old houses, and atmospheric alleyways, it’s a place where many literary figures once lived and where a sense of nostalgia still lingers. This area is perfect for leisurely walks and enjoying local street food. As you explore the highlights, you’ll be immersed in the charm of old Tokyo.
Located in Bunkyo Ward, Tokyo, Nezu and Sendagi can be accessed easily via several lines, including JR Yamanote Line (Nishi-Nippori Station, Nippori Station), and Tokyo Metro Chiyoda Line (Nezu Station, Sendagi Station). It’s a convenient spot for sightseeing.
This area is steeped in history and culture dating back to the Edo period, with its old townscape, temples and shrines, and literary landmarks. It’s especially known as the former residence of literary giants such as Natsume Sōseki and Mori Ōgai, and is cherished as a town with a rich literary atmosphere.
About a five-minute walk from Nezu Station, Nezu Shrine is a historic site founded around 1,900 years ago. The shrine grounds still retain much of their Edo-period charm. Seven buildings, including the main hall, offering hall, worship hall, and the karamon gate, all built under the fifth Tokugawa shogun Tsunayoshi in 1706, are designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan.
One of the shrine’s appeals is its tranquil atmosphere, which makes you forget the bustle of the city. Especially in spring, around 3,000 azaleas bloom on the shrine grounds, and the “Azalea Festival” is held. The vibrant red torii gates, the shrine buildings, and the lush gardens create a beautiful, quintessentially Edo-style scene. It’s also a popular spiritual spot, believed to bring blessings for love and academic success.
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The Sendagi area is home to several cafés renovated from old Japanese-style houses. One of the most recommended is Kayaba Coffee, which is housed in a building from the Taisho era. The café blends retro charm with modern design, creating a uniquely cozy space.
The interior features high ceilings and warm wooden textures, making it a great place to relax. In addition to excellent coffee, the café serves seasonal sweets and light meals. A must-try item is their signature tamago sandwich—thick, fluffy omelet sandwiched between slices of bread. It’s a perfect spot for a break during your sightseeing journey.
Established in 1874, Yanaka Cemetery is the final resting place of many notable painters, authors, and actors. It’s also where the now-gone Tennoji Five-Storied Pagoda, which inspired Rohan Kōda’s novel Five-Storied Pagoda, once stood. Today, the cemetery is famous for its cherry blossoms lining the pathways.
The central avenue in particular becomes a stunning tunnel of cherry blossoms in spring. Even outside the blossom season, the fresh greenery makes it a pleasant place for a peaceful walk.
Commonly known as Yanaka Ginza, this lively shopping street is one of the most beloved spots in the Nezu–Sendagi area. The 170-meter-long street is lined with about 60 unique shops, including traditional Japanese sweet stores, trendy dessert shops, and variety goods shops. Just strolling through this bustling street is a fun experience.
Don’t miss the iconic “Yuyake Dandan” (Sunset Stairs) at the end of the street. The sunset view from the top of the stairs is breathtaking, with a nostalgic view of the shitamachi townscape spreading out below.
From the historic Nezu Shrine to the retro charm of Yanaka Ginza Shopping Street and the atmospheric cafés of Sendagi, the Nezu–Sendagi area is packed with the timeless appeal of Tokyo’s shitamachi culture. Other highlights include the Former Yasuda Residence Garden, a fine example of early modern Japanese architecture, and the Kannon-ji Temple with its beautiful earthen walls.
In Nezu and Sendagi, you can enjoy a calm, heartwarming time away from the hustle and bustle of the city. Take a slow stroll through these streets, and you’ll surely fall in love with the area’s unique charm.
All photos by PIXTA