First, let me introduce myself. My name is Roza Akino and I live and work in Japan as an actress and model. I am also a lover of traditional culture, and an avid ryokan – traditional Japanese inn – enthusiast. This is the first of a series of posts where I will take you through some of the lesser-known ryokan and hotels located throughout Tokyo, so I hope you will join me on this journey!
Nestled in a quiet area of Taito-ku, a 5-minute walk from walk from Minowa Station on the Hibiya Line, is Andon Ryokan – nicknamed, “the lantern ryokan.” Built in 2003, its shape was inspired by an Edo period antique lantern, and has been a point of interest for architects from around the world.
As I step into the building, I feel a calmness, almost as if I’m slipping into a different dimension.
With its dim lighting and muted colors, Andon Ryokan is not a typical ryokan.
The recently renovated area, complete with a tea hearth and faucet for serving traditional tea (reservations for the tea experience are available on certain days)
The proprietress, Toshiko Ishii, has a love for antiques. This is apparent as you walk through the building, in her choice of furniture as well as the various figures and statues on display, which are changed according to the season. As I wait to interview her, she offers me some water. I can already tell that Ishii-san has carefully selected every detail of this place, from the kiriko-style faceted glass of water to the bunny-shaped acrylic panel holder that sits on the table as part of preventative measures taken for Covid-19.
A Showa-period cabinet containing various dishware with antiques displayed on top
The bunny-shaped holder for the acrylic panel
Opening a new ryokan in Tokyo in this day and age is not very common, but Ishii-san’s motivation behind doing so was to allow guests to experience food eaten in a regular Japanese home, katei-ryōri. The meals served here are definitely a big part of the experience: the menu changes daily depending on what seasonal ingredients are available, and guests get the option of choosing a fish, meat, or vegetarian dish for dinner (vegan preferences can also be accommodated). The meals are prepared to be well-balanced; the rice is organic, and you can even pick from three options of miso for your miso soup as well. As a bonus, all of the breakfast, lunch, and dinner options are very reasonable, ranging from \1100-\1540 in price.
An example of a fish breakfast meal (mackerel)
n example of a meat dinner meal (pork cutlet)
Ishii-san makes her own ume-shu, which is available for guests to try as well.
After devouring my katsu-teishoku, I ask Ishii-san to show me around the guest rooms. The ryokan has a total of 20 rooms situated on the second to the fourth floors, 19 of which accommodate up to two people, and one that accommodates 3-4 people.
The five-story ryokan doesn’t have an elevator, but it does have a baggage lift that will help you easily get your luggage to whichever floor the room is on with ease
As we move through the ryokan, Ishii-san shows me the inside of the shared restrooms that are situated on each floor. The wall tiles in each of the restrooms, which Ishii-san meticulously assembled herself, has a traditional Japanese folktale theme such as Kaguyahime and Momotaro.
The door to the restroom…fancy!
Ishii-san holding an English booklet explaining the story of Kintarou
A couple of the restrooms feature manga paintings, hand-painted on the wall, and there’s even one with a few manga panels for you to read while you’re…going about your business.
Going through the floors, I can see a variety of antiques displayed in every corner. From statues and figures, to stained-glass lamps, and even an Edo-Meiji period child’s kimono framed on the wall!
Amenities on each floor
The guest rooms are small but quaint. The lighting in the hallways as well as the rooms is all very soft, and contributes to the overall muted mood of the building. Each room is also soundproof, and even with its minimalistic design, still features a small table, lamp, and even TV.
The pair of futon are folded up neatly, complete with a set of yukata to give you the full Japanese bathing experience.
Speaking of baths, Andon Ryokan has an excellent private bath, a jacuzzi to be precise, that can be reserved for your personal use. It took all my willpower not to jump right in, but alas, my schedule for the day did not permit it. The tiles around the bathtub have also been artistically decorated, and the window opens to a view of the sky and some antique statues that Ishii-san has collected.
Our last stop, which was not very long due to the rainy weather, was to the roof. When sunny, however, the roof area has an area with a bench where guests can chat, enjoy some beer, or even have a smoke.
The tread up the steep flight of stairs would certainly be worth it to relax and enjoy the view of the city when skies are blue.
Andon Ryokan offers a unique homey experience to its overnight guests, but what’s also nice is that even those just passing through can enjoy Andon’s food for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, or even reserve the private bath for half an hour for a small fee of 1,000円. If you decide to take the 20-minute walk to the popular tourist area of Asakusa, you can also walk through the old historic pleasure quarters of Yoshiwara. Of course, if walking is not your cup of tea, there’s also a bus stop right in front of the ryokan that will take you there as well.
The area is also one of the few remaining areas where many sentō, public baths, still exist. Planning a trip around this shitamachi area to include a visit to one or more sentō throughout your day can be an adventure in itself, but be sure to familiarize yourself with Japanese bath manners, if you haven’t already, before you go.
The author (me) enjoying a cup of matcha
supported by Japan Ryokan and Hotel Association Tokyo Branch